Code Art Fair recommends its visitors to explore Copenhagen city and gives you a short directory below:
EAT & DRINK
The vibrant Danish food scene – supported by the plucky New Nordic movement – has made for some of today’s finest restaurants, including the ubiquitous Noma. But you do not have to spend the entire budget on fine dining to have a taste of Copenhagen.
A personal taste for the golden drops progressed into a world famous beer brewery for owner Mikkel Borg Bjergsø. The former physics teacher began experimen- ting with hops, malt, and yeast in his kitchen in 2006, and today Mikkeller exports micro-brewed beer to 40 different countries and serves it from his own cool and classy bars in Copenhagen, Stockholm, San Francisco, and Bangkok. With beers named Beer Geek Vanilla Shake, Vesterbro Wit, Santa’s Little Helper and Funky E-star, Mikkeller has set new standards for beer branding. But not only are the labels appealing – Mikkeller makes some of the world’s most inventive beer with ingredients like yuzu from Asia.
Mikkeller, 8 Victoriagade, 1655 Copenhagen V
Øl & Brød
The name of this restaurant means Beer & Bread, which is pretty much what to expect.
The restaurant specializes in the traditional smørrebrød, the open-faced rye bread sandwich – paired with home brewed beer. Have a taste of the new Nordic kitchen in a stylish yet street- wise atmosphere and try herring, potato, ham, and cheese like you have never had it before. The restaurant also has an extensive menu of snaps – maybe the largest in Copenhagen with more than a hundred different kinds.
Øl & Brød, 6 Victoriagade, 1655 Copenhagen V
Have dinner in Christiansborg Castle, home of the Danish Parlia- ment, in the centre of town. The original castle was built by foun- ding father and bishop Absalon in 1167 and thanks to two serious fires, it is now testimony to three eras of Danish architecture. The tower of Christiansborg is the highest in Copenhagen and from here you can see all the way to Sweden. Last year it was opened to the public and in addition to enjoying the view, you can treat yourself to a culinary experience in Restaurant Tårnet, which claims to serve Danish food ‘in the spirit of democracy’. Please enjoy!
Restaurant Tårnet, 1 Prins Jørgens Gård, 1218 Copenhagen K
In a side street off lively and touristy Nyhavn, you can find the newly opened The Union Kitchen. Here the proprietor, British Paul Muldowney, who also owns The Union Bar across the street, has in record time created a haunt where locals meet for scrambled eggs in the morning and cocktails in the evening. The restaurant is just one of many new initiatives that have given the little street a hint of New York in recent years. Actually Union Kitchen with its grey panels, dark woodwork, and jolly atmosphere would not have seemed out of place in East Vil- lage, and with both sliders (mini burgers) and homemade chips on the menu comparisons to the Big Apple are staring you right in the eye. Union Kitchen’s culinary focus is meatballs, however, and invita- tions like ‘meat our balls’ and ‘keep your balls company’ say it all.
Union Kitchen, 21 Store Strandstræde, 1255 Copenhagen K
In a former interior shop by the same name, Atelier September is now serving light, organic food in a relaxed, homely atmosphere. Take your seat by one of the large windows facing the street and watch people watch you while you are enjoying the almost- famous avocado sandwich on rye bread. Remember to document it on Instagram like the art and fashion in-crowd sitting next to you – wearing slim jeans from Acne and chequered shirts in organic cotton. End your visit with a cup of green tea served in a large ceramic mug imported from Japan.
Atelier September, 30 Gothersgade, 1123 Copenhagen K
Much attention from foodies all over the world was directed at American cook and former chef at Noma Matt Orlando when he opened his own restaurant called Amass a couple of years ago. Amass means more or less the same as ‘to gather’, and that is exactly the intention: gathering with friends for a good meal. The restaurant, located in the former tool depot at the B&W shipyard on Refshaleøen, has the unique Table 153, where you are seated among other guests you do not know in advance to enjoy a meal, which in Amass’ own words is ‘spontaneous, fresh, exciting, and thought-provoking.
Amass, 153 Refshalevej, 1432 Copenhagen K
‘Osteria 16 is potentially cult’ Danish food magazine Gastro wrote when this restaurant opened last year. Their predic- tion was spot on, and unoccupied seats have been hard to come by since then. Osteria 16 is an informal eatery with Italian dishes on the menu, served in rustic settings with a spirited atmos- phere just like in, well, Italy. The Pakistani dishwasher contributes once in a while with a curry dish, and the house hot dog with fen- nel sausage and tomato salsa has become a classic among the restaurant’s (many) regulars.
Osteria, 16 Haderslevgade, 1671 Copenhagen V
Newly opened Karmaman is a cross over between a cafe, a deli, a food market, and a coffee shop. You can buy fresh vegetables, homemade meals, and wine to go, or join the locals at the long wooden community table and order the dish of the day. The emphasis is on the social aspect of eating – hence the long table where strangers become friends and on locally grown and produced food.
Karmaman, 14 Fælledvej, 2200 Copenhagen N
If you do not know this perfect place for a drink or a locally produced brew you will never find it. Located in a former drugstore in the back of a building in Vesterbrogade, it is hidden from the main traffic of this busy neighbourhood. Lidkoeb offers the best drinks available in the city served by an accommodating staff who willingly recommends their own favourites from the extensive cocktail menu.
Lidkoeb, 72b Vesterbrogade, 1620 Copenhagen V
A couple og hours are not enough – you need to spend the night in Copenhagen. And as Hotel d’Angleterre steals all the glory in the main majestic square, Kgs. Nytorv, a handful of smaller, uniquely decorated hotels offer a good, fashionable, ann design-oriented sleep elsewhere in town.
Hotel SP34 opened last year, just a stone’s throw from the City Hall Square, but the very central location is not the only thing this hotel has got going for it. The 118 rooms are furnished in an unmistakably Scandinavian style with materials such as wood, leather, and cotton in soft ranges of colour, and with its organic breakfast and free wine hour every afternoon, SP34 is the obvious choice for connoisseurs.
Hotel SP34, 34 Sankt Peders Stræde, 1453 Copenhagen K
Central Hotel & Café
Central Hotel & Café is the world’s smallest hotel with only one room, located above the world’s smallest coffee shop. But what a room! And what a coffee! The double room is suited for a couple or one person, and comes with a beautifully decorated interior perfect for people with an eye for design. The hotel has a fairy-tale feel and is located in a part of town where the florist greets the passing people when they have had a cup of coffee and a soft boiled egg at the neighbouring Granola cafe.
Central Hotel & Café, 1 Tullinsgade, 1610 Copenhagen V
Crowne Plaza Copenhagen Towers
Enjoy an organic breakfast, snuggle up in a bathrobe made from organic cotton, and brush your teeth with a biodegradable toothbrush made from corn and potato starch. Hotel Crown Plaza Copenhagen Towers in Copenhagen is one of the leading sustainable hotels in Denmark, and has welcomed both the eco-traveller and the picky design aficionado since opening in 2009. The spacious and elegant rooms are furnished with Paustian furniture (made in part from recycled materials, of course) and have views across the entire Ørestad region towards Copenhagen.
Crowne Plaza Copenhagen Towers, 114 – 118 Ørestads Boulevard, 2300 Copenhagen S
Copenhagen has a thriving art scene and is – based on a boom in the last couple of years – celebrating its position as a unique place for experimentation and innovation. The city offers a great variety of independent galleries showing contemporary art at shifting art shows and exhibitions, but the established museums and historic galleries are also worth a visit.
The privately owned art institution Faurschou Foundation is a cutting-edge powerhouse on the international contemporary art
scene with two exhibition spaces, one in Beijing and one in Copenhagen, beautifully located in an old warehouse at the industrial dock area of Østerbro. Since 2011 the foundation has hosted solo exhibitions of renowned artists such as Louise Bourgeois, Ai Wei- wei, and Shirin Neshat. Go there to mingle with the intellectual in-crowd of Copenhagen – or to dream of your next art purchase.
Faurschou Foundation, 11 Klubiensvej, 2100 Østerbro
Design Museum Danmark
This is Denmark’s largest museum of Danish and international design and a central exhibition forum for industrial design and applied arts in Scandinavia. The museum is beautifully located in one of Copenhagen’s finest rococo buildings, the former King Frederik’s Hospital, and in recent years the new management years has put the museum on the map with events such artist talks, workshops, and internationally recognized exhibitions.
Design Museum Danmark, 68 Bredgade, 1260 Copenhagen K
Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek
Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek is an art museum founded in 1888 by local brewer Carl Jacobsen (1842- 1914), who also is the father of the famous Danish Carlsberg beer. The museum showcases one of Europe’s finest collections of art and artefacts from Mesopotamia, pharaonic Egypt, Ancient Greece, Etruria, and The Roman Empire, as well as French and Danish art of the nineteenth century. If this is not your thing, go there for the absolutely stunning sub-tropical Winter Garden.
Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, 7 Dantes Plads, 1556 Copenhagen K
The perfect leisure activity depends on the time of year. In the summertime the city comes alive in the numerous green park spaces and especially at the waterfront where people go for a dip during their lunch break. In the wintertime it is all about the Danish concept of hygge. It literally translates into ‘cosiness’, but really it is about candlelight, fireplaces, good friends, and nice food – all at the same time.
Across from Nyhavn, on the opposite side of the water, lies the little island Papirøen (The Paper Island). The large industrial halls and warehouses in the area were previously used for paper storage, hence the name, but today the island is home to a number of creative companies, as well as Copenhagen Street Food, where you can but quality food from some 40 culinary caravans, sheet metal sheds, and other provisional stalls. Finish with coffee in de- signer Henrik Vibskov’s new café, Den Plettede Gris (The Spotted Pig) just around corner.
Papirøen, Trangravsvej, 1436 Copenhagen
The old meatpacking district has become a happening place with a variety of bars, cafés, and fine dining, and is home to creative companies and high-end galleries. The area is the former red light district, and some places the buildings are still run-down, add- ing to the shabby, relaxed-cool ambience. Try restaurants like Kul, Fiskebaren, and Paté Paté and bars like Jolene, Bakken, and Mesteren & Lærlingen.
You will need a bicycle to get around in Copenhagen, at least if you want to blend in. In fact, 55 percent of all Copenhageners bike every day, and the city’s town planners aim to make Copenhagen the world’s best cycling city. The newly opened two-lane elevated orange Cycle Snake (the latest of the city’s safe bike lanes) wriggles its way over the harbour, connecting new parts of town for the two-wheelers, who – as the western world becomes increa-singly aware of the environmental damage of the car industry – attain ever more recognition and street coolness. City-Bikes can be borrowed for free at many junctions in town.
At this local cinema located in Nørrebro the repertoire is a mix of Hollywood blockbusters and small, independent productions. The last row is reserved for kissing couples with double seats and anyone with long legs will appreciate the generally large space between the rows. The surrounding area is scattered with bars and restaurants – do try the newly opened place Bæst literally in the building next door.
Empire Bio, 29 Guldbergsgade, 2200 Nørrebro
Dividing Vesterbro from the district of Frederiksberg is the small street Værnedamsvej, also known as ‘The Food Street’ for its Parisian atmosphere and cosy eateries
and gourmet cheese, wine, and chocolate shops. Here you will find Falernum, a cosy bar serving wine and tapas from a dedicated staff, and Granola, which is the place to go for soft-boiled eggs and coffee in the morning – and the rest of the day, for that matter.
Copenhagen offers a variety of department stores like Illum and Magasin. They are great if you are in a hurry, but you will get a more genuine shopping treat in many small independent stores scattered around the districts. Every district has its own flavour – and the city centre is the hub tying it all together.
Shop of the new
Kim Dolva and Søren Bech Jespersen from Københavns Møbelsnedkeri (Copenhagen Furniture Makers) have achieved star status among people who like design, solid handicraft, and things with history. Last year they opened a shop called The Shop of the New in Hellerup, just north of Copenhagen, where they sell their own products and designs from others. Here you can buy yourself silly in chairs, lamps, carving boards, and art prints in beautiful wooden frames. The shop is right next to take-away place Le Marché, part of the Copenhagen food imperium Cofoco.
The Shop of the New, 213 Strandvejen, 2900 Hellerup
Nibble is the name of a new shop in Copenhagen’s former meat packing district – it is a combined bookstore, design shop, café, and culinary laboratory with an ambition of collecting the world’s most renowned food magazines on the long shelves. The interior is designed by design bureau OeO, and the place has become a ren- dezvous for people who think that food is about more than just filling your stomach.
Nibble, 12 Høkerboderne, 1712 Copenhagen V
Multitalented wild child Henrik Vibskov creates not only clothes but entire universes with titles like The Transparent Tongue, The Stiff Neck Chamber, and The Spaghetti Handjob. Since his student years at Central Saint Martins School of Design in London he has produced numerous collections, shows, and art exhibitions, and he is currently the only Scandi- navian designer on the official show schedule of the Paris Men’s Fashion Week. Henrik Vibskov is known for an avant-garde-like vibe, yet he masters the difficult balance between high fashion and a generally appealing style. At his Copenhagen store you will find clothing as well as shoes, accessories, and clothes from other brands like Stine Goya, Comme des Garcons, and MM6 by Maison Martin Margiela.
Henrik Vibskov, 6 Krystalgade, 1172 Copenhagen K
Dansk Made For Rooms
For a quintessential Nordic shopping experience, make your way to Vesterbro and have a peek in this boutique specializing in interior design and decoration. The adage at Dansk Made for Rooms is quality before quantity, and this shines through every object aesthetically displayed on long wooden shelves in the large and bright room. Contemporary furniture, slim vases, rustic ceramic cups and plates, cool kitchenware, designer lamps, and decorative pieces made by primarily Scandinavian designers and craftsmen sum up the ambience that perfectly complements the young and hip feel of area.
Dansk Made for Rooms, 80 Istedgade, 1650 Copenhagen V
Streamlined Swedish brand Acne (an acronym of Ambition to Create Novel Expressions) has achieved cult status over the past decade thanks to its reinterpretation of wardrobe classics like jeans, loose-fitting shirts, long coats, and knitwear. This coveted brand can be bought at full price in two inner city shops, but in the Nørrebro neighbourhood you can find a little treasury where previous collections, showpieces, samples, etc. are sold at reductions of up to 80 percent.
Acne Archive, 21 Elmegade, 2200 Nørrebro
Studio Oliver Gustav
Some might call Oliver Gustav’s universe dark. Others would probably use the designation avant- garde, and yet others would refer to his style as perspicaciously un-Danish. No matter what, you cannot ignore his shop in a side street off Nyhavn. Its raw and monochrome aesthetics diverge significantly from the Nordic white and soft expression, and his range is comprised of furniture and objects by designers and artists such as Rick Owens, Faye Toogood, Michaël Verheyden, and Dirk Vander Koiij, whose exclusive line of furniture this shop is the sole supplier of in Denmark. Exclusivity is one of Oliver Gustav’s hallmarks – if you shop at his place, you get something unique, be that a chair or a certain style.
Studio Oliver Gustav, 9 Store Strandstræde, 1255 Copenhagen K
The gallery Etage Projects is known for its focus on objects that occupy the borderlands between art and design. The boutique is physically as well as in terms of content an extension of the gal- lery, and the selection – objets d’art and interior design pieces – include the gallery’s former and future works. They also have a wide range of foreign brands and magazines that have not previously been available to Danish customers, and you might even get lucky and get your hands on vintage rarities.
Etage Projects, 15E Borgergade, 1300 København K,
Design company Gubi has in recent years made a name for itself by reproducing design classics such as Bestlite’s lamps, the Paradiset collection by Swedish designer Kerstin H. Holmquist, and a series of products from French designer Mathieu Mategot. Collaborations with contemporary talents like Stine Gam and Enrico Fratesi from GamFratesi, and Poul Christiansen and Boris Berlin from Komplot Design have helped emphasizing Gubi’s position as international design house. The furniture company’s latest invention is a concept shop of international standard; a beautifully appointed shop, which just like somebody’s home contains both furniture and a carefully chosen selection of books and interior design.
Gubi Store, 10 Møntergade, 1140 Copenhagen K
The city centre and the districts around it make for a great stay in Copenhagen. But if you have time to spare or simply need a break from the hustle and bustle, a trip up the coast is a lovely way to spend the day. The art museum Louisiana is almost mandatory if you are interested in Danish architecture and contemporary art.
Karen Blixen, also known as Isak Dinesen and Pierre Andrézel, was one of Denmark’s greatest storytellers. With the book Seven Gothic Tales, published in 1934, she made her presence felt on the international literary scene. The book was written in English, which was the language that Karen Blixen felt most at home in after 17 years in Kenya. In 1931 Karen Blixen moved home to Denmark, to her picturesque childhood home, Rungstedlund, which has remained more or less unchanged since her death in 1962. The place gives you a vivid impression of a well-to-do Danish family, of the author’s day-to day environment, and a colourful, passionate life, as depicted in the blockbuster Out of Africa from 1985, starring Meryl Streep and Robert Redford.
Karen Blixen-Museet, 111 Rungsted Strandvej, 2960 Rungsted
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art
In the mid-50s, when the founder of Louisiana, Knud W. Jensen, asked the architects Jørgen Bo and Wilhelm Wohlert to build a museum as an extension to an old villa, their basic conception was to link the architecture with the natural surroundings. They suc- ceeded to such a degree that visitors flock to Louisiana to enjoy its beautiful gardens and scenic view of Øresund. Once you step inside the museum offers an extensive permanent art collection of more than 3,500 works and features special exhibitions of contempo- rary art, and you can easily spend a full day there, taking lunch in the scenic cafe and browsing in the museum shop selling design items, posters, and books.
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, 13 Gl. Strand- vej, 3050 Humlebæk
Kurhotel Skodsborg was founded in 1898 by physician Carl Ottosen and was based on his philosophy that fresh air, water, light, mas- sage, gymnastics, and a rational diet have both healing and pro- phylactic effects. That philosophy still characterizes the hydro, but today it has all been wrapped in a contemporary, Nordic context with offers of everything from spa for friends, team building, and weekend stays with personalized exercise programmes to recrea- tion and rehabilitation. With hotel, restaurant, medical centre, spa, fitness, and conference facilities the term ’holistic’ is not merely empty talk here, but the very cor- nerstone upon which the options are presented. A day with spa treatments or an overnight stay in the luxurious surroundings works wonders on any winter-blue mind.
Kurhotel Skodsborg, 139 Skodsborg Strandvej, 2942 Skodsborg
Ordrupgaard is most definitely worth the fifteen minutes’ drive from Copenhagen the museum itself is located in a manor house with surrounding parkland, which today constitutes the framework for a wonderful sculpture park in which a series of artists create works inspired the scenery. The museum exhibits French impressionism and Danish paintings from the early 19th century and has a large and exclusive collection of artists like Monet, Gauguin, and Danish. In addition you can visit Danish architect Finn Juhl’s house, which stands just as he left it, and in 2005 an astonishing extension to Ordrupgaard was built, designed by star architect Zaha Hadid.
Ordrupgaard, 110 Vilvordevej, 2920 Charlottenlund